This is the final story about our "different than expected" Nepal trek, different because Covid-19 forced us to alter our plans.
We left the small village of Briddhim the morning of April 1, 2020 on a trek down to the main road. Before leaving we were all draped with a white Khata, a traditional Tibetan scarf presented at ceremonies like births, graduations, or weddings, but also placed around the necks of relatives and close friends to say good bye and good luck. There is a driveable road to Briddhim, and if Nepal had not been in lock down our jeep would have come to the village to collect us, but this road had been barricaded lower down and traffic could not get past. So we did one final trek, this time all downhill.
It took us about one and a half hours to reach the jeep which was waiting for us on the gravel road. Our guide, Nar, had arranged all of this for us; permission from the district officer to let us travel and a jeep plus driver (the driver had to obtain a permit as well, allowing his vehicle to travel). GG had requested, and received, a safe passage letter from the High Commission of Canada in New Delhi India (the Canadian Consular office in Nepal had been closed) so we were good to go. The drive back to Kathmandu was a lot faster than the
previous trip because there was no traffic on the roads, but we were stopped multiple times to have our travel permits checked and our temperatures taken. It was a shock to finally arrive in Kathmandu and see how desolate the city was. When we had left to start our trek the roads had been crowded with people, trucks and buses and the air was hazy from pollution. Upon our return there was almost no traffic, no one was walking on the streets and the Himalayas were clearly visible to the north (the accompanying photo was not taken by me).
We had arranged to stay at the Kathmandu Guest House (KGH) which, when we arrived, was not open for guests. However we had a preexisting reservation, made in early January and we had been in Nepal for more than two weeks, so we were allowed to pass through
the guarded gate. The KGH was established in 1968, and quickly became the place where everyone who was anyone had to stay. It started as a small hotel with seven rooms but is now a collection of buildings surrounding the tranquil Dream Garden (not to be confused with the Garden of Dreams which is around the corner and down the street). This garden was one of the reasons we had made a reservation here, we thought the grassy lawn would be a nice place to hang out, far away from the frenetic, crowded, noisy streets. We
were fortunate to have the garden because Nepali lock-down prohibited pedestrians from walking out of doors except for one hour at 5 P.M. and we used this opportunity to walk 20 meters to a small shop to buy snacks (i.e. cookies, chips
and small bottles of Kukri rum). It was not really a hotel holiday, the room was never cleaned and there was no menu, we had to eat whatever had been cooked for the staff - which meant eating a lot of baked beans and toast for breakfast and dal baht for dinner. The entire staff also stayed within the guest house compound and were kept busy doing maintenance chores as well as preparing food packets for the poor. These were distributed during the 5 P.M. lifting of curfew, placed on a table outside of the gate with social distancing circles painted on the road for the line of patiently waiting people.
Our return flights with Air Canada had been cancelled so we arrived in Kathmandu uncertain of a departure date but we thought it was better to be close to the airport instead of in a small village in the mountains. GG e-mailed the High Commission of Canada in New Delhi to see if they had any information about flights and we received a reply that the Canadian government was not providing repatriation flights from Nepal, travellers were on their own. We were not the only Canadians wanting to go home and very soon a Facebook Group was organized "Canadians Stranded in Nepal". Finally, after a lot of on-line discussions and a few e-mails from GG to our MP, a "rescue" flight was organized in conjunction with the Aussies (and here I should mention that this was the fourth Australian repatriation flight). The Canadian government did not offer any monetary assistance for this flight to Montreal, via Doha Qatar, and we had to buy an onward
ticket to Vancouver, so overall it was very expensive but we decided to go anyway. Other budget travellers who could not afford to pay decided to stay behind, and as I sit here in Vancouver writing this on
July 2 they remain in Kathmandu, hoping there may be a flight on July 5. Today, July 4, we have learned that international flights have again been suspended to, at least, July 23!!
We departed Nepal on April 11, overnighted in the Qatar airport and arrived back in Vancouver on Easter Sunday, April 12. From the city we drove GG's truck to Gabriola Island (he had left it parked in Vancouver) to spend our 14 days in self-quarantine doing all of the things we normally do when we are there. The only difference was that we could not go shopping - but the grocery store, and friends, delivered to our property so that was fine.
LE's 2 1/2 week birthday trip turned into a month of unplanned adventures, plus we flew around the world in one trip- a first for both of us.