Curare's Adventures

Signs of fall

It is the end of February and autumn is just around the corner. Summer weather, with it's hot temperatures and sunny days, occurred for about 10 days in January and since then it has been sliding towards fall. For the past two days Linda has been picking blackberries for pies, fresh corn on the cob is on the supermarket shelves and today we saw a chestnut tree heavily laden with it's spiky nuts.  Mornings on the river have been foggy, back to school sales are in full swing and flocks of ducks are flying north. Even though I KNOW that seasons are reversed in the southern hemisphere it just does not seem right that fall is already here and we are still tied to a dock.

Another Trip to Bolivia

Geoff has just returned from another trip to Bolivia in order to check in on activities there.  It seems like it shouldn’t be that far to go but it can take days travelling each way.  For starters, it’s the summer vacation season in Chile and everyone travels to the lake and river district, and that is where we are.  It was not possible to get a flight from Valdivia to Santiago, so Geoff took a comfortable overnight bus and spent a day roaming around Santiago before catching a flight to Lima, Peru and then another one to La Paz, Bolivia.  Summer time in Bolivia is the rainy season, so road travel is full of obstacles – like mud, and lots of it.  There was also some hail and snow at times which made for a multi-seasonal trip, or so it seemed.

On the drive back into town from the field area recent rains had caused some flooding along the rivers, and since the main road crosses the river a few times, travelling was delayed or halted altogether.  Several buses were seen stuck in the middle of rivers while the passengers got out to try and help or just sat around waiting for the water to subside.  We pulled out a couple of the smaller vehicles but left the buses behind.  On one crossing we used the pickup like a boat, floating part way across the river until the tires could grab terra firma on the other side.  The boys in the back seat were glad to be back on dry land after the trip which left a high water mark across the hood of the truck as proof of the depth.

Projects, Repairs and More

We have been busy over the past several weeks taking care of chores, repairs and maintenance on Curare.  The list seems endless and we work for several hours most days on a variety of tasks.  Everything is pretty much together now and the current rainfall is testing some of the repairs.  We’re able to set off at any time now, and are waiting for a favourable weather window and the never ending festivities to end.

Some of the items we’ve tackled include new day covers for the salon and navigation seats; re-sewing the protective covers for the dinghy; repairing the transom of the dinghy (again); replacing the BarBQ regulator (yes, again); re-bedding the galley portholes and salon hatch (yes, of course again!); cleaning and painting lockers, propane bottles and dorade vents; re-caulking deck seams; varnishing teak; repairing the salon table; making Jessie stairs so that she can get on and off of CURARE by herself (not really a boat project but necessary); rigging an outboard hoist tackle to replace the one that was stolen;  locating, purchasing and storing heavy, floating shore lines needed for the canals; cleaning, repairing and re-bedding winches and a whole lot more undertakings that would fill the page and bore everyone stiff.

We’re now looking forward to a few months of cruising the islands and canals between Puerto Montt and Laguna San Rafael.  Hopefully we won’t be spending all of our time on boat chores.

Changes in Latitude posting

In the most recent edition of the mostly electronic, free publication of Latitude 38, the editor provides a profile of Curare and her crew during the past year.  This publication (available at www.latitude38.com) covers racing and cruising boats along the Pacific Coast including those making the passage to the South Pacific. There is a chapter called "Changes in Latitudes" that provides updates on people further afield than North America. We have met the editor a few times on our travels in Mexico and he is a great proponent of the cruising lifestyle.  An excerpt of the article is provided below with the full Changes of Latitude article provided on the side bar under the heading "Comments from the Crew".

Travels to Southern Chile

It's been over a year since we've updated our travels aboard S/V Curare.  After departing El Salvador in 2010 we continued on down the central America coast with stops in Nicaragua and Costa Rica, where we had to put in for some emergency repairs due to a leaking stern tube.  By the time we completed our repairs the window to cross the Pacific had closed so we ended up leaving Curare on the hard at the Costa Rica Yacht Club in Punta Arenas.  After four months absence we returned to a very moldy boat that required lots of scrubbing to get her back to a livable state.  We re-launched Curare in October, 2010 and sailed southward to Panama, spending Christmas in the western islands, an isolated area of amazing beauty. During this season there were very few boats in the anchorages and we enjoyed some of the most beautiful sunsets we had seen since leaving Mexico. We crossed the Gulf of Panama on New Years eve and spent a few days in Las Perlas islands before moving on to Panama City.  What a dynamic and entertaining place, where anything seems possible and every imaginable boat repair can be accomplished.  Within a week we had our liferaft inspected, the radar/chart plotter repaired, parts ordered in from Miami (including new batteries) and new charts on board for heading on south. Of course the best entertainment was watching all of the cruisers preparing for or finishing off their canal transits with tires hanging from every stanchion.

The biggest highlight of 2011 was the sail from Las Perlas islands southwest to the Galapagos Islands.  We sailed in radio contact with five other boats and all of us experienced the most idyllic conditions of broad reaching in 15 to 20 knots of wind with a positive current.  We covered the 950 miles in seven days - most of it under spinnaker and Curare attained her personal best of 180 miles in 24 hours. The five boats arrived to the Galapagos within 20 hours of each other and all of us agreed it was a sail of a lifetime.

After a week at anchor off of Santa Cristobal, and observing as many of Darwin's creatures as we could find, we set off for Easter Island, 2200 miles to the south-southwest.  We again had reasonable weather on this passage, making the trip in 19 days.  Although there is no secure anchorage at Easter Island, we did manage to get our dog, Jessie, ashore for some much needed exercise.  We made a quick trip around the island before winds starting building in the Hanga Roa anchorage, but we left it too late to leave so we ended up riding out a three day blow with winds to 25 knots and seas in the five metre range.  During all of this, a single hander with a partially disabled boat (mast crown broken, sailing under jury rig with an inoperable engine) managed to anchor up wind of us with the assistance of the Armada.  Later that morning one of her anchor rodes parted but two other cruisers came to her assistance and managed to secure the boat with a second line and anchor.  While pitching around on the boat's foredeck trying to secure the ground tackle, I watched the Armada attempt several times to pass a tow line.  At one point, their 20 foot open launcha went vertical and a wave crest broke over the bow soaking all five of the sailors.  Fortunately the weather abated shortly after that.

After provisioning with fresh produce at Hanga Roa, we departed for the 2300 mile trip southeast to Valdivia, Chile taking 23 days for this passage as we had some contrary winds and current, a brief gale and periods of calm.  We tried to avoid getting below 40 degrees latitude but had to duck one weather system that took us to 42 degrees south.  Curare has now been at the Valdivia Yacht Club since May 2011 while we returned home to secure more funds for the next leg of our voyage.  Valdivia has been a comfortable place for us and our boat, something the Spaniards figured out back in 1550 when they made it their safe hide out for the Pacific coast.  We enjoy trips into town and the local fish market where we can buy salmon for $6 per kilo, have a four course meal including a glass of fine Chilean wine for $4 and are able to provision conveniently with fresh produce from the local area.  We've just returned to Curare to start the next cruising season during the austral summer but we are in no hurry to move on.  It's summer time here, the weather is great, and there is a large coast to explore.  As usual our plans are uncertain but currently this looks like a fine place to be.

World Cup Regatta in Valdivia, Chile

The Club de Yates Valdivia is the oldest yacht club in Chile, celebrating their 100th anniversary this year.  Part of these celebrations included hosting the first World Cup regatta for the Pirate class sailboat. This is a very big event for the club and the crew of Curare had the opportunity to partake in the many events of the regatta. 

The Pirata (in Spanish) is a small, 5 metre long by 1.6 metre wide velero similar to the Flying Junior.  The boat was originally designed in 1934 for the German youth to learn sailing techniques and has a large following worldwide.  The Royal Canadian Sea Cadets also use the Pirate class as a training sailboat.  With a full mainsail and a fractional rig jib the boats sport 10 m² of sail area and can fly a 10 m² spinnaker.  At a measured weight of 218 kg, the boats are lively performers.

The Pirate World Cup Regatta was held from January 12 to 21, 2012 with a limit of 50 entrants.  There were numerous European participants including Austria, Germany, Great Britain, Hungary, Switzerland, and Turkey. Of course Chile and neighbouring Argentina, with their strong German heritage, had multiple entrants in the event.  The race schedule included two to three races per day with a lay day in the middle.  The regatta was run on a points system using the International Pirate Class Racing Rules.  Points are assigned based on your position over the line, so the boat with the fewest points wins.

Three race venues were available depending on current and wind conditions: on the Valdivia River right in front of Marina Estancilla so that the crew of Curare would have a front row seat; in the shelter of Isla Mancera (where we first anchored Curare after our passage from Easter Island) at the mouth of the river; and in Bahia Corral which is open to the winds and swell of the Pacific Ocean.  Other than on the practice day, all races were run on windward-leeward in Bahia Corral.  However, with wind over current conditions along the river, the five mile tow to the start meant a very wet ride for everyone.

When one of the skippers was unable to race due to an injury, G had the opportunity to participate in the races for one day.  It was an excruciatingly long wait for the course to be set up, as the Race Committee deliberated exactly where the windward leg should go in the frequently changing conditions.  After a two hour delay the 10 minute flag was raised.  With 45 boats converging on the short start line, there was a lot of adrenaline flowing as everyone wanted the favoured end.  We managed to fend off from other competitors by yelling “Agua” and crossed over in fine position.  Unfortunately with all of the  jostling, a restart was called.  We didn’t fare as well on the next two starts but did finish the races in the middle of the pack at 27 and 28, respectively. Everyone got to rehash the races at the end of the day back at Marina Estancilla where the local artisanal brewer provided abundant refreshments.

It's been exciting to be among these world class racers, participating in the regatta events and helping repair broken stays, sails and hulls between the races.  While not quite an America's Cup event, the Valdivia Yacht Club sponsored a great regatta and provided all participants a perfect venue for world cup racing.

The first Pirate World Cup trophy was taken by a German registrant, followed closely by a Chilean team.  In fact five Chilean boats were in the top 10 showing that there is strong competition among this spirited little training boat.

My fun filled trip

After more than 7 months ashore I have finally made it back to my floating home but it was not an easy trip. I knew something was up in October when one of the uprights took me to the doctor to have me poked and prodded and then she took me again in December, and I wasn't even feeling sick. Even though I claim to hate these doctor visits I secretly like them because I usually get a handful or two of tasty treats. My mouth is watering just writing about them. But back to the story.

One rainy day in early January my plastic dog crate was loaded into the car and I was chauffeured to the airport. I actually thought I was going on another trip - but I was wrong. This excursion was merely to determine if my crate was adequate. I flew from Chile to Vancouver in this exact same crate so as far as I was concerned this was a waste of my time but no one lets me decide things for myself - I have to do what the uprights want. At the airport I walked into the crate to show the man that there was a lot of room but he said it was too small. Did I mention that this was only 30 hours before my flight to Toronto? My upright was getting rather tense and upset so to show my sympathy I got diarrhea and started throwing up. After 20 minutes or so the man returned with a stinky wooden crate that had been used by a dog that came to Vancouver from Australia. This was deemed to be larger but I don't think it was, I could not curl up and there was a huge water bucket that I kept bumping my head into.

On January 4 my upright roused me out of bed at 0530 and we went for a rainy walk. Then she loaded her bags into the car, put me in the back and off we drove. We got to the cargo depot at 0635, and I waited in the car while she went into arrange my shipment. She was gone a long time and when she came back for me she was crying. A less than pleasant person at the Cargo desk had told her that there was an embargo on flying cute little dogs like me during this time period, even though she had a booking number and this flight was arranged back in October. However I knew my upright is very determined and can be persuasive so after much talking and tears and waving of arms I was finally allowed on board, and she was too.

When I got out of my crate I was not back in Chile where I had expected to go,  but I was in Toronto. How exciting to run around in the snow. We stayed overnight with Linda's cousin and wife and I was supposed to socialize with my two large dog cousins. No way was I going to let them tell me what to do, even though it was their house and the big guy lent me his jacket. I growled my way onto one of their cushions, ate my portion of their treats and took the best spot on the carpet. I think they understood that I was the top dog. This day was all about me after all!

All too soon we loaded ourselves back into the car and drove off one more time, back to the airport. I thought that maybe I would get a better crate, one with more room inside, but I was wrong. The upright had arranged to leave the smelly thing overnight at the airport and all too soon I was back inside. As she walked out of the building I cried really loud so she would know how upset I was and maybe she would return to rescue me. But she didn't.

Next thing I know I am inside of the plane, then I am taken off the plane. What is going on??  Some woman I did not know came to collect me and brought me to a different house. Maybe I should not have cried so loudly, maybe my upright has given me away, maybe I will never see her again, maybe..... I was so worried but at least I got fed. (Meanwhile the plane had taken off and Linda was not told that Jessie was no longer aboard until 30 minutes into the flight. Jessie had been removed from the plane because the heated cargo area was not working and she would have turned into a Popsicle. Hooray for the cargo people noticing this malfunction but Boo to them for not telling the owner sooner.) I had to stay outside all of the next day without a jacket and there was snow on the ground. The day before I thought snow was exciting, but without the loaner jacket it was cold and nasty. How do dogs live in a climate like this?

When it got dark I went back to the airport and was put back into the terrible crate. I still hated being inside but this time I didn't cry, I kept very quiet. It worked because soon I was flying south and at the other end both uprights were there to greet me. We walked out of the building towards a car and left the terrible crate behind. It was probably the happiest day of my life.  Now I'm back in charge of things on Curare, demanding my walks, treats and kibble.  Amazingly enough, I almost always seem to get what I want.  I guess the uprights like me.  Maybe I'll stick around and entertain them awhile longer.

Hotel - motel

A motel in Latin America is very different from those you encounter in North America.  When driving through British Columbia there are numerous motels lining the sides of the roads leading into every town you drive through – very normal, sometimes seedy, sometimes rundown but still generally normal motels.

Throughout Latin America, from Mexico to Chile, a motel has a totally different connotation.  While these motels are similarly located on the outskirts of towns, they are very secluded and well hidden from view.  The drive in is separated from the drive out and once inside the parking spaces and motel rooms are hidden behind curtains or garage doors.  You don't register and you do not meet anyone.  These motels are where latinos go for their secret love affairs! 

It’s a somewhat strange and foreign concept, not the love affairs, but the hideaway motels.  I guess with such large and extended families it is difficult to quietly have an affair in your own home or local hotel.  But is there really that many affairs going on that every town can support a half dozen love palaces?  Apparently so.

On his drive up to Santiago to collect the crew inbound from Canada, Geoff had a difficult time finding places to stay.  One night was spent in a “hospedaje”, essentially a bed and breakfast kind of place with such low doorways he cracked his head on it and the dogs barking all night kept him awake.  The next night was spent at a hostal which was probably the worst flea ridden hole he has stayed in since backpacking in India.  Nearing Santiago and knowing what the cost of a hotel is there, Geoff was on the lookout for comfortable accommodations.  Seeing a “hotel-motel” sign with the name El Refugio, not Lover’s Lane or L’amor, he decided to check the place out.  For little more than the cost of the previous sketchy rooms, this motel room was luxurious with a large comfortable and clean bed, hot and cold running water and a TV - oh and mirrors on the ceiling!  The place just felt creepy knowing what it was all about.

It turned out to be a perfectly fine quiet place to get a comfortable night’s sleep.  And judging by the limited traffic through the place, the Latino libido may not be everything it’s thought to be.

Marine Ways

During our travels to various countries over the past four years we have hauled Curare out of the water in some interesting places using some rather suspect equipment.  We generally try to haul out once per year to check all under water thru hulls, clean the hull, apply anti-fouling paint and on more than one occasion make emergency repairs.  In Mexico the Travel lift in Guaymas had some very disconcerting bald tires with steel bands exposed.  Oh, and the very skinny water at the slip required comfort in dealing with mud.  In Costa Rica, the chain driven Travel Lift hoist, while rated at 25 tons, had the tires go flat lifting Curare’s svelte 10 tons, not to mention the 5 knot current at the entrance to the lift out slot that required  dexterity and line handling to manoeuver into.

So when it came time to haul out Curare after her several months of sitting in the Rio Valdivia there really was only one choice.  That was to use the marine railway at the Club de Yates Valdivia.  We had seen several boats of our size hauled out there as repairs and cleaning were completed so it made good sense to do the same for Curare.  The difficulty here was that we didn’t quite understand how the system worked.  Helpful cruisers suggested tying off to the cradle arms as tight as possible to prevent the boat from tipping over (potential disaster lifting the whole rail car off the bed!).  However no one really explained that the stern lines had to be slack in order to allow for the slope of the ramp.  So after three attempts with all the lines taught and Curare suspended on her tail by stern lines that caused her to pivot in the cradle, Geoff finally got it figured out correctly and with a spider web of lines, supported Curare vertically in the rail car without any of the cradle arms touching her sides.  Interesting technique!

We’re not sure if this was the cause or just the regular way that things are conducted but the workers slipped the brake off and Curare literally hurtled backwards at a tremendous speed towards the water.  Fearing the rudder would snap on impact with the water, Geoff screamed (possibly high pitched girly one since workers reacted quickly!) and the railway stopped before burying Curare into the mud.  With not too much more effort we were back in the water floating on the low water lines with everything operational and ready for another season of cruising.  Geoff however is still trying to get over his sore throat.

School’s Out for Summer

It took me a few days to realize why all the schools I walked past in Valdivia had a pile of chairs hanging off the fence and stacked in front of the entrance.  I gather this is the local way of expressing your feelings of getting out of school for the summer holidays.

Christmas in Valdivia (and Canada)

Merry Christmas everyone from the crew of Curare. 

Geoff spent Christmas day at Marina Estancilla in Valdivia working on a few boat chores, touring the river in the newly inflated dinghy and finishing it off with a wonderful lamb barbeque put on by the marina caretaker and his family and friends.

It seems strange to have classic iconic North America Christmas paraphernalia decorating houses and malls here.  While the people are familiar with snow its odd to have images of snowmen and frosty flakes hanging in windows on one of the hottest days of the year.  And the Santa Claus in the mall with the lineup of children was verging on bizarre.  The mad rush to buy groceries and presents the day before Christmas seems to be a global event.

Meanwhile Linda and Jessie spent Christmas in a different time zone a few thousand miles away. While G was feasting on roasted lamb L was busy preparing a Christmas dinner for eight. The entire family celebrated at L's younger sister's house, the first time the family has been together for Christmas since 2006. Of course we all missed our mom, grandma and wife but it wasn't as difficult as I imagined. Even Jessie got to participate, mostly by getting in everyone's way, but mainly to help with the leftovers.

Best wishes to all for a happy holiday time.